Need Help Understanding This C-Betting Quiz

gl523gl523 Red Chipper Posts: 71 ✭✭
So I took a c-betting quiz and I didn't do well on it so I am trying to see where I went wrong and why. I was wondering if it were possible to double-check my explanations to see if I am on the right track or if one could answer the questions that I have regarding a particular situation. Here's the link to the quiz questions, answers, and explanations:

1) Why is it that the opponents's range will consist of mostly low equity hands? Are all dry boards good for c-betting? Will this answer change if the Q became a J or T? Why is this board good for c-betting but not a AQ4 rainbow flop even though both of those boards are dry?

2) Are all wet boards bad for c-betting if one isn't trying to bluff with it? If so, is the reason why because there are a lot more hands such as draws that would continue with it?

3) Isn't a 9 good for the opponent's range though? Also, doesn't one need to make club draws pay more?

4) Can someone explain the idea of using aces as a good bluff catcher? I don't fully understand that.

5) Are all paired boards good for c-betting? Why is it that the "Big Blind will have a hard time calling and raising"?

6) See question 2.

7) Why does one need to polarize the betting range? Is it because the board is so wet? If so, are all wet boards good for polarizing? What are some good candidates for polarizing?

8) Why is c-betting here better than a delayed c-bet? What makes a hand a good bluff catcher? When should one considering turning a hand into a bluff catcher?

9) Why bet this board instead of checking it (besides the fact that it isn't an option)? In general, when is it right to bet small on wet boards?

10) This makes sense to me.


  • TheGameKatTheGameKat Posts: 1,923 -
    You'll be pleased to know that we'll be sending out our very own c-betting quiz in the near future and carrying out an analysis of the results to help drive our content in this area.
    Moderation In Moderation
  • gl523gl523 Red Chipper Posts: 71 ✭✭
    Lol. Can’t wait. Hope that I have developed enough skills to pass your quiz.
  • PapaGiorgioPapaGiorgio Red Chipper Posts: 65 ✭✭
    I'll try to explain my understanding of Cbetting. Hopefully others can confirm/correct my answers.

    1. BB didn't 3B you in an obvious steal situation, so it's unlikely that BB has premium hands. His range will consist of connectors/one-gappers, perhaps some Axs, middle to low PP, etc. This board doesn't really hit that range, so the probability that you will get a fold is high (probably better than the BE% you are offering). Hands like 88-66 and T9s are difficult to play from the BB because many cards will not help the hand and the expectation is that BTN will continue betting on the turn. Thus, it would be better for BB to fold most of their range to a CB. Also, you are CB with backdoor flush draw. Thinking about cards that are good for your hand, you can continue on any heart, any A, K, Q, J, T, 5, 4, 3, 2. So, CB is profitable. Changing Q to J doesn't really change the hand, but changin Q to T should reduce your cbetting frequency. If you look up Doug Hull's flop table, a T is a special card and increases the chance that the caller hits the flop by about 6% (exact percentage varies, but I use this as an approximation). The CB success is expected to be lower when the flop contains a T, but that doesn't necessarily mean you should check behind. Given your backdoor draw potential and your position, I still think you can safely CB. I'm not sure where you got the AQ4r flop. You should have more Ax in your range than the caller. You have backdoor gutshot potential on this flop, and if I also had backdoor flush draw, then I'd CB the flop.

    2. The ProVideos have a few videos on cbetting. You should watch them to better understand the wet vs dry flop. I think there is a misconception that we should cbet all dry flops and check all well flops. The decision really comes down to ranges and how many turn cards will help your range vs their range. This is a wet flop and is good for callers range (think of all off the KJ, QJ, T9, etc. hands that connect). Also, if you CB flop, then what will you do if an A, K, Q, J, T, 9, 8, or 7 come on the turn? That's a bunch of cards that really helps caller's range. If you CB, what hands are you hoping to fold out? In other words, your equity if called will not be very good. This isn't to say that you need to check all wet boards. Rather, you need to look at your hand to help you decide whether to check or CB. On this board, I'd CB with 2p+, combo draws (like Kxh or Kxc), and backdoor flush and gutshots (like AQh, AJc, Q9s).

    3. My advice is to compare this hand to hand #1. The reasoning for CB appears different, but not really. In hand #1, the Q is more likely to hit your hand than the 9-high flop on this board. So, you might not get A4/A2 to call in Hand #1 like you would here (and even if they call in Hand #1, then they wouldn't be able to withstand a double barrel). But that's OK because you have a PP. Like the Q, the 9 isn't any more likely to hit your opponent's range. But, you do want to bet here because there are many cards that can come and beat you. You want to fold those hands out so that you can realize your equity with 66. As the answer said, you are hoping to fold out hands like KT, Q8, TJ so that turn cards of K, Q, J, or T do not hurt you.

    4. AA is less likely to be drawn out on compared to JJ (Q, K, and A could fall and beat you). This is why you cbet more with JJ. The added benefit of checking with AA is that you give your opponent courage to bet turn with his 9x, 7x, or 6x hands. Also, BB might even lead into you on the turn with KJ or QJ because your check seems weak. You had initiative on the flop and decided to check. From the BB's perpective, you appear weak so they could bet turn and hope to pick up the pot. They will bet with hands they would have folded had you CB. Thus, your check has higher EV than a CB.

    5. Paired flops are hard to hit exactly because very few combos remain in their range. Your range could included 7x (think 97s, 87s, etc.). The smallish CB could be viewed as a "please call me" bet, but most of BB's range completely misses the flop. BB has to be concerned that they are way behind on this flop, so most sensible players will just fold and look to play the next hand. Why can't BB raise? Think about what their raise would represent. xR a backdoor flush draw is burning money, and their really isn't many draws. So the xR is trips or an overpair, which represent a small percentage of hands in their PF calling range.

    6. See if my answer to question #2 makes sense. Your hand is why you are OK taking a free card. You need to CB some hands, so what hands make sense to bet here? 2p+, Overpairs, flush draw, gutshots? Again, it's not necessarily wet vs dry board texture. It also comes down to what you are trying to accomplish and how the next card might change the equities.

    7. Same board but different hand. See answer for #6. Polarizing is good because you want to bet both for value and for a bluff. Polarizing helps you balance so that thinking players can't exploit you. If you only CB 2p+, then BB could fold all of their bottom/middle pair hands and only call/raise when they can beat or have a draw to beat 2p+. Likewise, if you always CB your draws, then BB can call with all one-pair hands. "Polarizing all wet or dry boards" can't really be established as a rule because we should adjust to each player. Polarization works best vs thinking players; you skew toward value hands vs calling staions and skew toward bluffs vs those who fold too much (nits?). On this board, 2p+, T9, T8, flush draw, J9, and J8 make good candidates for CB (give or take some hands). I'm less inclined to CB 54 or 43 because a 5 or 8 could help BB more than us.

    8. Good questions for this hand. I'm not quite sure of when a delayed CB is better, so someone better than I could help clarify this one. My understanding of delayed CB is that a delayed CB might be better with AK/AJ as there are fewer turn cards that can beat us. So we don't mind giving a free card on the flop. With A9, any T, J, K can potentially beat us, so it's better to bet and "charge for the draw" (although "charging for draws" isn't a good enough reason). The decision to bluff catch comes down to the board and ranges. If you were to check the turn and think BB would bet with hands that you beat but they would fold most of these hands to a turn barrel, then your EV will probably be higher by turning your hand into a bluff catcher (assuming that few river cards can cause BB to beat you). If you think BB will call a turn barrel with hands you beat and not bet them on the river had you checked, then it is higher EV to bet yourself.

    9. The idea behind betting small is two fold. First, your risk is lower. Second, the small bet might keep more hands in BB's calling range. You can use smaller sizing on both wet and dry boards depending on your goal in the hand. I agree that checking here would be OK, and I'd probably check behind with my hand. I would bet if I had more equity in the hand. So, if I had AJ (obviously), KJ, QJ, or spade draw, then I'd bet. I think I'd have the backdoor flush draw as my bluffing range.

    I've been refining my cbetting strategy based on the pro videos and CORE. If you haven't invested in it, then I'd recommend at least CORE to help form your overall strategy...
  • persuadeopersuadeo Red Chipper, Table Captain Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited April 8
    While some assumptions are reasonably shared across many strategies, i wouldn't get too worried if you disagree with some answers. Range vs range determines a lot of cbetting generalities so variations in starting points logically end up in variations in ending points, even in the vaccuum they suggest for this quiz.

    Upswing is a strong poker program but there is no pop quiz or 5 Tips article in the world that can or will determine the best strategy for you - that is just too simple.
  • gl523gl523 Red Chipper Posts: 71 ✭✭
    1) Why is BU expected to bet on the turn? How is a T, 5, 4, 3 or 2 good for us?
    2) Do the ProVideos cost money? If not, could you send me a link to the videos?
    3) I thought that a 9 is good for Villain’s range since Villain has T9s, 98s, A9s, K9s, 97s?
    4) Makes sense to me now. :)
    5) Why isn’t it a good idea for BB to call with two overcards since most of Hero’s range will miss the flop as well?
    6) So is the reason why we cbet with draws is that if we make our draw, we can continue firing? Or is it due to a different reason? With wet boards, is it always the case that we cbet with only 2 pair+ and draws?
    7) So why is this board good for polarizing and not others?
    8) How does a T, J or K beat us when we have top pair (ignoring the broadway straight)
    9) Why is our risk lower? Why would you bet a spade draw instead of taking a free card (other than the fact that it isn’t an option in this quiz)? What do you mean “depending on the goal of your hand”? When is it a good time to keep more hands in Villain’s range and when isn’t it a good time? Why not check to keep all of Villain’s range (besides the fact that it isn’t an option)?
  • MichaelBMichaelB Red Chipper Posts: 203 ✭✭✭
    66% of the time, I cbet every time.

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